Dealing with exposure – Iconoclast – 5.10C/5.11A – 10/4/2015

Aaron and I spent last weekend in Leavenworth, WA, seeking the last bit of sun before the usual grayness. We spent the first day doing some casual climbing on Icicle Buttress. Aaron was the designated leader of the day. I followed him up a first fun legit 5.8 crack, then we did some dirty easy climbing to gain…

Iconoclast tentative – Psychopath (5.11A) – 9/19/2015

Last Saturday Jaga and I had planned to climb “Iconoclast” on the Snow Creek Wall. It’s a big climb for me, I spent some time studying the pitches to make sure I could lead them all. My main goal was to climb “Psycopath”, a 5.11A varation of Pitch 2 of Iconoclast. That line seemed beautiful….

Acid Baby – 5.10+ – 8/22/2015

“Acid Baby”. What a great name for a climb! I want to do it. And so we did last weekend. This climb is fairly sustained. Nothing rated under 5.9 (that grade at Leavenworth is no joke to me still!), and two of the three 5.9 pitches certainly got they own challenges. We slept at the trailhead…

Bale-Kramar – 5.10B – April 2015

I convinced Andreas to climb the “Bale Kramar” route with me. Climbing with Andreas is easy: he is always up for anything, always in a good mood, always encouraging, and he has good stories. On top of that he is a strong boulderer which is why I wanted to do the “Bale Kramar” route with…

Outer Space – 5.9 – 5/16/2015

Apparently every climber in Washington State has to climb “Outer Space” and “Godzilla”. These sound like the climber’s graduation climbs in Washington. I have been avoiding these two for a while: “Outer Space” gets really crowded, that always seemed like a downside to me. Aaron and I had planned to go to Trout Creek that weekend…