Squamish/Papoose – Centerfold (5.10b) and Hairpin (5.10a) – 9/12/2015

Aaron and I checked out the “Papoose” cliff in Squamish Saturday. It’s a five minute hike to the base, I don’t understand why we haven’t been there before! The plan was to start with “Hairpin”, a 5.10a 5 pitches climb. There were a few parties already on it, and the last group were moving slowly. So we headed to “Centerfold”, another Top 100 multipitch.

Aaron lead the first pitch of “Centerfold”, a short pitch with a few 5.10b moves above a bolt. Now we were warmed up. Then I headed up another 5.10b of another nature. It was a decently long pitch (~25meters?) starting with a good handcrack, then to a twin fingercrack (though I believe I only used one crack here) then up some face moves. It was really varied and I was slowly waking up. The last part of the pitch went through some wet face climbing. Luckily it was easy, and chalk was kinda helping.

The third pitch looked like more wet face climbing, so we decided to bail here and head to “Hairpin”. Good decision.

“Hairpin” starts with a weird 5.8 walking traverse. Aaron lead it, walking on the crack for part of the pitch. Weird. Then here comes a 5.10a thin hand crack, my lead.

Aaron leading the first pitch of “Hairpin” – 5.8

After that Aaron lead us through a roof and a few 5.9 traverse moves. Really interesting and fun. My turn to lead a 5.6R traverse , super fun. I wish every pitch I lead would feel like a 5.6. Although maybe that would kill the fun in climbing.

Aaron following the 5.6R pitch of “Hairpin”.

After that I lead the 5.10a slab climb. It was well protected and easy to understand where to place hands and feet in those pockets.

We rapped down to the base. In retrospect, walking off would have been way faster. Especially since we were climbing with a rope without middle mark.

Once down, I wanted to climb “Mushroom”, another Top 100 single pitch. But somehow we ended up on “Mercury Vapour”, a 10a climb starting with face moves and up a small roof to a crack. It certainly got my brain involved. Damn it, I just wanted to finish the day with some mindless handjamming!

Sunday we checked out the crag “Up among the First” with Unkle Mark. Aaron and I lead “Wicker cranium”, a 5.9 crack climb. The view at the top of the crag is amazing.

Aaron leading “Wicker Cranium”, 5.9
Me leading “A little testis”, 5.10C with Mark as a belayer

Mark then onsighted “A little testis”, a striking beautiful corner – with a ugly weird 5.10C Bulge / Knee jam thing. I lead that one too, and loved it.


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