Since the weather in the mountains looked good only one day, Aaron and I decided to try a new crag. beacon Rock is actually not too far from Tacoma. Why haven’t we been there before? Oh, maybe because there is nothing easy besides the really popular “SouthEast corner”.
These days I have been ok, starting the day with 5.10- climbs. That was a mistake at beacon Rock. I should have warmed up. We didn’t have much info to work with when we got to the crag, so I decided to go for “Blownout”, 5.10a-b 2-3 pitches. I am standing below that climb on the picture below.
It blew out my mind for sure. Aaron lead the first long pitch, to the base of the chimney / corner. The first part was supposed to be 5.9. Yeah, right. Really stiff for a 5.9! It was hard to understand and plan the moves.
My turn up the chimney / crack climb, stemming. Apparently it had three cruxes. I put my hand on a frog, then downclimbed to figure out how to get up without touching it again. My mistake was to place my #1 and #0.75 cams at the bottom, because I was running out of them higher. There was a really rusty old bold to clip instead of placing a #1, but it seemed really unsafe.
This is me following Aaron on the first pitch of “Blownout”. Really steep and tricky climbing!
The next day we actually warmed up. Lesson learned. I lead “Cruisin” , a really interesting 5.8 finger crack slab. Then we cooked in the sun up “Jill’s Thrill”, a three-four pitches 5.9 that looks pretty horrible, but has really fun exciting moves.
Beacon Rock is thrilling! I can’t wait to go back.