Bullethead East – 5.10C – 6/7/2015

Nathan and I climbed “Bullethead East”, a 4-pitch climb on the Chief, Campground Wall. Getting to the start of the climb takes literally 10 minutes from the Chief campground, just above the cooking area. We started the climb a bit before 9am, hoping to be early enough to avoid the sun. It was supposed to be exceeding 80 degrees that day.

I lead the first pitch, a 5.9 corner / flake, hard to describe. It was long and subject to a lot of drag. I belayed Nathan from a bolted anchor.

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Bullethead East, Pitch 1
Once up, it took us a bit to locate the second pitch. It was actually only about 6 meter to the right of the bolted anchor, just in line with the rapping anchor. Nathan lead that 5.10C pitch: a crack leading to a roof and finishing with a finger crack to a tree belay.

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Bullethead East, pitch 2
From the top of the second pitch, there were two 5.10C options: a finger crack to the right (gear belay needed), and a  stem box above the tree belay. The stem box couldn’t be seen from the tree belay, but I chose to lead that one anyways. It was so good! One of the best climb I have done this year. I would do it again, and again tomorrow, and not let my partners lead it. It’s mine! It was about 40 meter and I wanted it to be infinite.  I belayed Nathan from a tree anchor on a big ledge.

There are also two options for pitch 4. A finger crack, and a 5.10B chimney. We were both into doing the challenging chimney, that would make that climb really varied. Nathan lead, it looked really difficult. I followed, facing left, it seemed like the easiest way.

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Bullethead East, Pitch 4 Chimney
A 60 meter rope barely reaches the ground to descend back to the legde from pitch 4. We did 6 rappels to go back to our packs.

 

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