Old Style (5.9) – Cider Crack (5.10A) – Grub Street Connection (5.10C) – 5/22/2015

Aaron wanted to climb “Old Style”, a beautiful 5.9 right-facing corner in the Malamute.

Climbing at the Malamute is a bit of an adventure. Rapping down to the water, instead of the usual steep uphill hikes. Finding the rap station was easy, following the book’s instructions.

While rapping down, I looked at our two way up options: “Rosebud” (5.10B) and the second pitch of “Grub Street” (5.10C). “Rosebud” looked like straight forward finger crack climbing, while “Grub Street” seemed more varied.

After 3 rappels we made it to the base of “Old Style”. Belaying from there isn’t comfy. Hopefully Aaron goes fast! And he did.  Indeed this climb is really enjoyable!

20150522_115819
Aaron on “Grub Street”

Then I headed up “Cider Crack”. After a little of dirt stepping I reach a roof. I pulled on the cam to go up the roof here, out of laziness. The crack up there is weird to protect with cams, and of course, I didn’t take any nuts. Lesson learned here! Take your nuts with you.

Now is the time to decide between “Grub Street” or “RoseBud”. “RoseBud” involves moving the belay. “Grub Street” is supposed to be a little harder, long (~50m?), with a roof, a little traverse. More of a challenge. I felt bad to pull on a cam while leading the pitch below so I decided to make it up with leading the 5.10C climb. Would it compensate?

I really enjoyed climbing “Grub Street”. So varied and with lots of rests. The crux was a small fingery finger crack, and maybe the roof too. It started to be really windy at that point.

I did it clean! Yay! It made up for how badly I climbed the pitch before.

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