Bale-Kramar – 5.10B – April 2015

I convinced Andreas to climb the “Bale Kramar” route with me. Climbing with Andreas is easy: he is always up for anything, always in a good mood, always encouraging, and he has good stories.

On top of that he is a strong boulderer which is why I wanted to do the “Bale Kramar” route with him since I was worried I wouldn’t be able to lead the first pitch.

We camped at a free camping spot, freezing a bit at night. Leavenworth is so weird that way. After eating a huge breakfast we headed to Careno crags.

I was right: the first move of the “Bale-Kramar” route is super hard. Andreas made it look too easy. I pulled on the quickdraw to hardly make my way up, feeling a little discouraged.

We then headed to a 5.9 corner, part of the “Careno corner” route. I wanted to warm up before doing the 5.10B crack ahead of us. That climb was pretty easy for a 5.9 in Leavenworth. Andreas was freezing, only wearing a T-shirt in the wind and shaded weather. We considered going back down to get his sweater, but he sucked it up instead.

We then headed to the 5.10B crack. It started with a weird move then becomes a bit techy. I really enjoyed the climbing. Hard for me, but a “can do”.


We were pleased to find a wild flower garden at that point. Too bad I didn’t take a picture.

Andreas lead the last pitch. Pretty heady 5.10A mixed of bolts+crack protection. He couldn’t hear me at all because of the wind and I had a lot slack falling down while I was climbing, a little scared.

We then rap down another anchor, and walked down the gully.

Another good day.


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